I've been working in the surf industry since I was 17, practically growing up in it. I did finish high school 'cause, you know, having a framework and being a kid are both important. But that was my experience, and it really worked for me. I'm grateful for that. I've been involved in every aspect of the industry, from being an ambassador to running my own business. It's changed a lot over time, though. Back when I got into it, there was no real money involved. We were all just doing it for the love of the sport, not chasing big sponsors or fat paychecks.
When I was coming up, we'd go on trips and film everything, but we wouldn't see the footage until maybe two years later. Some of those clips would end up in films or ad campaigns, all carefully handpicked. It wasn't like we were watching ourselves in real-time, critiquing our moves and trying to get better. I hardly saw myself surfing unless it was in a video or a movie. There was something special about that time, you know? It had a real sense of purity.