I came to surfing relatively late in life, growing up inland. I started surfing when I was about 18 or 19 and have been somewhat obsessive ever since. To me, the most interesting thing about surfing is how elusive and fleeting it is. You put in all this effort and structure your whole day around it, all to have these little bursts of, what, five seconds of joy? For these tiny moments, you feel like you’re flying; its pure joy, total freedom, then it’s gone. It’s so fleeting and elusive, you can never get enough and it just leaves you hungry for more. It’s like a drug in a way. So, that anticipation for a surf is sort of anticipation for that next hit of the best non-narcotic drug you can get, the brain must just light up with endorphins. And it’s never the same, right? You can’t walk back up the hill and send it again to try and clear a section. Once it’s gone, it’s gone. You make a mistake, you can’t try again, so you’ve got to be fully focused and in the moment. Again, like on the bike, moving meditation.
When it’s not time for playing outdoors, then I’m probably thinking about the next meal and drink. My wife Jackie and I love cooking, exploring restaurants and delicious wines. She’s studied wine for years, and I gladly “study” alongside her. Its great having a partner with so much knowledge and passion for wine and the cultures that push that artform forward. Of course, this also ties back into travel, etc.